Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Back to Cycling

I (foolishly) signed up to do the Double Triple Bypass.  Not just the Triple Bypass, the DOUBLE Triple Bypass.

It's basically so mindboggling hard that I'm not even telling people that I registered for the Double Triple, just that I registered for the Triple.  The triple, that's acceptable, that's not too crazy.  People say, "ah, yes, of course you did that."  But the Double???  That's insanity.  240 miles and 20,000' elevation gain in two days.  AHHHHH.

Except.

I know I can do it.  I've biked all of these passes separately, and of the directions I've done--juniper and loveland west to east are not included here--the only shitty parts are less than a mile each on juniper from east to west and Vail from west to east.

Now it's just a matter of will power and determination.  Part of me is like "whyyyyyyyyy," and the other part is like "BRING IT ON."  Ah, being young.

In any case, now that I registered, my car decided to implode and the weather decided to be spring-in-January, as Colorado is apt to do.  Which means tons of biking!  On the plus side of this particular adventure, I don't need anything else for training.  Holla!

Last day of bouldering

Yesterday was the last day of my bouldering membership at the Denver Bouldering Club. It's been an amazing time, much more so than I anticipated.  I initially joined to train for climbing in Kalymnos over the holidays due to the 24/7 gym access, low cost, and close proximity to my apartment.  I discovered a nice community, and a place that honestly started to feel like home towards the end.

I lay on a mat last night, blasting M83--my climbing music of choice--and reflecting on the feelings of happiness and bliss that come with seeing something in life progress, even if it is something so small as the ability to climb up a few holds on a wall.  The first time I ever bouldered was in college when I went with my friend Yuki and could literally do nothing.  The wall was in this tiny room of an MIT building and had maybe 30 routes on it, many of them from sit-starts.

I've never been too thrilled about bouldering since then, but I wanted to get better for Kalymnos.  It's the first time I'd ever thought about "training" as anything other than just "climbing a bunch and getting into good shape."  As it turns out, an hour at the bouldering session is equivalent to at least 3 hours at the gym top roping, just because of all that tying in and belaying and walking around you end up doing.  By climbing and downclimbing every single route doubles the effort, and it's easy to attempt 15-20 routes in an hour.

And so, I got better.  Kenneth taught me some training techniques like "hovering" above a hold with your hands or feet for 3 seconds, which trains you to find a more optimal balance.  He also encouraged me to think about precise foot placement on holds, even holds that were way way bigger than they need to be.  He gave key pointers about climbing on inverted routes, namely to be stable before reaching for a hold.

And so, while I was a V1/V2 climber when I started at DBC, I finished up as a sometimes-V4-and-that-one-V5 climber.  (I did a total of 4 V4s and 1 V5.) Pretty awesome.  I'm tempted to continue my membership and get up to the multiple-V5 level, but I need to save that $$ for other the thousand other things I need to buy right now (telemark bindings/mounting, aspen trip, orizaba, liz's wedding, burning man).  I'm very fortunate that I'm in graduate school and not something paying me a lot of money... if my funds weren't limited, I would probably get myself into deepdeep trouble.

In any case, it's been a good run with DBC.  I'll hopefully be back next winter to hone my skills even further.

Monday, January 19, 2015

Climbing skills, revisited

When I posted that climber conversion chart, it wasn't quite right.  It's accctually:

E- = V0 = 5.9
E = V1/V2 = 5.10...
E+ = V3 = 5.11
M- = V4 = 5.12a/b
M = V5/V6 = 5.12c/d
M+ = V7 = 5.13a

So I can already do a few V4s with a very specific sequence of stemming-heavy climbing, heehee.

Today I went to DBC to check out their competition climbs.  I flashed all Rec climbs 1-9, but couldn't do Rec #10.  I flashed Intermediate climbs 1-3, sent #4 on the second try, and couldn't finished #5 or #6.  Rec #10 and Int #5 I will eventually be able to do if I come back a few more times, but Int #6 is definitely beyond my skill level and makes me feel extremely uncomfortable!  I can do all but the last 2-3 moves, and I don't know that I'll be able to get comfortable in that space with any sort of quickness.

In any case, I sent 13 bouldering routes and attempted 3 others at least 3 times, all in the course of an hour.  Not too shabby for a girl who only bouldered for two months, I suppose.

I wish I'd entered the competition!  I would've definitely entered in the "rec" level, and maybe could've won a prize of some sort.